The remaining 80 miles will be done after a week’s break to walk St Cuthbert’s Way with the synod pilgrimage. In my reading in preparation for this, I have been reading Mary Low who in her book ‘St Cuthbert’s Way’ cites a sermon by George McLeod on prayer preached in July 1955.
'The only way to achieve a sense of God’s presence is to put yourself in the way of him. In our analogy you achieve a sense of life in the presence of a flower (Pluck it and it dies), by a running stream (Put it in a pail and your have H20 not living water), in a bracing wind (bag it and it becomes stagnant) with sunbeams falling on the stream (move a branch and they are gone). You come here to say you have had a perfectly lovely day. It has been a benediction of a day. You can only achieve a sense of God in a similar way. You can only find God in the now.’
This has been my experience on this Sabbatical, that although we hear the stories and know God has been with us in the past and hope God will be with us in the future, we find God in the now. However, this presence of God in the now is not only in the beauty of nature. It is also in the chance encounter with the group of alcoholics who were keen to fuss the dogs, with the older married couple who are pleased to talk to someone and hear about the walk, and all those who went out of their way to give directions when local knowledge was better than maps and signs.
Day 1: Seaham to St Peter’s Metro
This was an easy day’s walking that I started along the beach, but then went up on to the cliff tops before Pincushion Rocks as high tide was late morning and there was a risk of getting stranded. Erosion had led to the cliff path being suspended but many others had continued to walk it and I followed suit. A couple of gills needed traversing. I then went along Hendon Promenade and picked up a disused railway line that took me around the docks to bring me out in Sunderland by Trinity Church (Grade I and now only used for concerts) where Jack Crawford along with 100,000 others are buried. A journey around the quays along a promenade and new housing development with views overlooking the mouth of the Wear brought me round to St Peter’s metro station. Day 2 St Peter’s Metro to Percy Main Metro
This was the longest day of the walk so far but very rich in its diversity. From St Peter’s metro, I followed the Wear walk around past the university and glass centre and round to the Marina. I would strongly recommend this as a walk – Sunderland does not do itself justice. The sculptures along this route are fascinating ranging from a tree crane, nuts and bolts, remains of workers cottages and a series of story panels done by school children in years 5 and 6. The first was powerful. It told of how the people had cut down all the trees including a magic one to make ships. The ship made from this special tree sank. So they made another ship out of steel to go and lift it from the sea bed. They put the wreck on the ground and it grew back into more trees including another magic one. This is a profound story of hope from children in a community that has seen industry and development wax and wane.
Then I walked along Roker’s prom and beach (once it became dog friendly in this summer season). Following coffee and teacake at a cafe on the beach side, it was up to the cliffs with views across to Fulwell Windmill; along round Whitburn Bay and then the fire ranges that fortunately were closed and up to Souter Lighthouse. The views across the sea and along the cliffs were great. We continued along Marsden Bay and up to the road to see the old limestone works.
The Leas is a mining area now reclaimed with wonderful walks across it and many wild flowers and good views to the sea birds nesting on the cliffs. I had my picnic lunch at the top of Trow Quarry while Toby and Molly the dogs exhausted themselves in the pursuit of rabbits with no success. Then along the sands of South Shields and Herd Beach that were very impressive for the quality of the beaches. There were lots of young children on days out from school in their base ball caps. Then it was around the promenade of South Tyne to the ferry. One of the things that have struck me on this walk is how I have encountered male culture – on skate board parks, fishing on the docks and in locals. 
I had decided not to use the ferry, having done that route along this part of the coast when walking with Christian Aid on the ‘Cut the Carbon’ march a couple of years ago. So I went further inland to the pedestrian and cycle tunnel. This involved 3-4 miles on a cycle route alongside a main road all around the outside of the docks. It was a test of stamina. It was tricky finding the entrance to the tunnel due to the construction work taking place on the road tunnel. Very few people around seemed able to give directions. Eventually I found it. Like the transporter bridge, it was a disappointment. The longest wooden escalators, at the time of construction, had not been working for months and so we had to walk down them. Perhaps this was better from the dog’s perspective. The tunnel itself was actually much shorter than I expected and was nothing compared to underground link tunnels in London. It was busier than I expected especially
with cyclists. We got a lift up and out. At least I can now say I have done it. The next day a six million refurbishment scheme was announced. Then it was up the bank to Percy Main metro and the journey home. Day 3 Percy Main to Monkseaton metro stations
I followed the cycle route down from the station that actually goes all the way to Berwick but which I will not be following all the way. It took me down through a lush green housing development with apartment blocks where the chronically poor are housed. A shrine to a youngster murdered 17 years ago was maintained with football shirt, flowers and cards on the fence. God is here.
Then it was down through Redburn Dene, beautifully landscaped with sculptures from the old hulks of wooden ships and onto the Fish Quay. This is the fish quay of all those I have walked around that I will return to. Its restaurants and sh ops looked appetising and well worth investigating in the absence of dogs. Then I followed the promenade around to North Pier, then around the Priory and enjoyed watching the folk on the beaches as I walked above them on the Promenade. It was good to see Cullercoats in more detail than one can from driving on the road. At the start of Whitley Sands, I cut up to Monkseaton Metro station having had a light day.Rowena
