Rowena's Walking, Whitby to Berwick: Week 4

Week 4 and the final week of the Synod Coast walk and the end is in sight.

Day 1 Alnmouth Station to Embleton.

Even with my current heightened level of fitness I came to the realisation that all the way to Seahouses following a train journey to Alnmouth was not going to happen in a day. So with help from the Tourist Board a further dog friendly B&B was found in Embleton so that a more leisurely walk could take place spread over an additional day. This was a good thing as the train was delayed by a good half hour due to a broken down engineering train on the Alnmouth line. The dogs and I walked down the cycle track to the Priory and then down to the beach past the Fountain where a guy was collecting parking money. Then it was up and along the tops to Boulmer for lunch. The yellow bee rescue helicopter was buzzing around and making its presence heard most of the afternoon. This was my first weekend walking day and I was taken aback by how many people were out and about.

The views of the rock formations were wonderful. The dogs loved the freedom of the cliffs although Toby got covered in grass seeds that it will take a number one shave to get rid of. (He is booked in next week!) A local expressed concern about him bringing the seeds back home to the garden – but that has already happened. We rested in Howdiemont Sands a beautiful small bay in which the tide was coming in fast. Then we continued along the cliffs past the Bathing House built for the Grey Victorian family with its pool, past Howick to Craster. Cullernose Point was covered in noisy sea birds.

A drink in a pub overlooking the harbour and then with dogs on leads due to sheep we followed the masses over the grassy track towards Dunstanburgh Castle. This week I seem to have walked across and around golf courses galore. I am amazed they are all as busy as they are. There was a footpath round the back to the road up to Embleton where a good night’s rest in the Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel was had and where I enjoyed a dinner of local kipper pate and lemon sole.

Day 2 Embleton to Seahouses.

This was a leisurely day. It may have been best to get as far as Bamburgh but my planning and internet search for dog friendly accommodation had not turned up many places at all. Along this part of the coast there are many shacks / beach chalets dotted around the dunes, amidst the bracken, for families and people to use as a base for kite boarding and other water sports. It was hard work progressing up and down in the soft sand of the dunes. We wandered past Newton Pool Nature reserve and into the village of old fishing cottages hugging the way down to the sea. Then we saw the glorious coast line around Newton Point, Football Hole and the Snook.

Then it was a long traipse along Beadnell Bay with an incoming tide and seeming miles of sand. Toby wanted to be up on the Dunes so I had a sulking dog in tow. We diverted up stream to use the bridge across Long Nanny, mainly because of the incoming tide. We stayed on the track behind the dunes, through what seemed to be an endless caravan site to Beadnell with its harbour and limestone kilns. I went out on the head land but failed to find the C13th ruins of St Ebba’s Chapel and will need to leave this exploration for another day.

Out of Beadnell we had to follow the road and stopped at a Post Office for sandwiches on a green. I am finding stretches of this part of the coast less inspiring than further South as there is less variety; with its endless beaches of sand and dunes that the footpath often falls in behind so that the sea is not visible. This has surprised me given its reputation as a real beauty spot. I got fed up with the road and dropped down onto the beach which further along meant jumping a channel and then climbing up behind sea defences to follow a track up to the road and back down again to circumvent an old Quarry pond near North Sunderland Point. This was better though than more road walking. The views out to the Farne Islands were good although not entirely clear due to the overcast weather. Then it was afternoon tea time on the main street of Seahouses watching the world go by before walking along the front to tonight’s B&B. All the rooms had a sea view and it was great to keep the curtains open and see the lighting change across the sea and islands with the setting and rising sun and enjoy the brightness of the stars. Once freshened up from the day’s walk I went to the Old Ship Inn where a meal in their beer garden overlooking the sea finished the day off in style.

Day 3: Seahouses to Fenwick.

Today entailed a walk inland in order to get around Budle Bay with its sinking sands and tidal channel. It was a route march along the 3+ miles of sands from outside the hotel door to Bamburgh Castle and beyond. Then it was a climb onto the headland and a walk around Budle Point with excellent views of the bay. The rest of the morning was spent on varied footpaths across golf courses, fields and tracks towards Belford. This meant crossing the main East Coast railway line and passing through the grain driers that were fully operational and whose fans were whirring away. They use vast amounts of electricity. Then it your life in their hands as we crossed the A1. As we came past Warren Mill thunder and lightening moved nearer and waterproofs were only just donned before the heavens opened. This was the first real soaking of the walk. After walking through long grass my socks could be rung out and my boots were soaking wet. In a 45 minute pause in the rain I had lunch in Belford but as I set off again once more the thunder rumbled, the lightening shot through the sky and the dogs hung their heads, cowered and looked pathetic.

Following the footpath out from Belford to Swinhoe Farm we lost the route. We went through cattle in a field who unnerved me by starting to chase us so I did my Crocodile Dundee impersonation and we got through the gap into the next field. A problem – the footpath ran out and there was no way I was going back through the cattle field. So we climbed a gate with barbed wire atop that others had obviously done before us and scrambled up beside a stone wall. This then had to be climbed and the dogs enticed through bracken and encouraged through a fence. We were a good half mile North East of where we needed to be so had to follow a DEFRA path through a wood and then go along a track back to the farm to pick up the North Northumberland Coast path once more. This route seemed to be much more clearly marked going in the other direction. Swinhoe Lakes hosted a swan family and the woods around were heaving with young pheasant just let out of the pens ready for the shooting season. They made the dogs frantic by wandering along in front of us and just out of reach.

By now it was mid afternoon and I was faced with a choice. I could head through the woods to Fenwick bearing in mind my experience of the way-marking of the path so far and also that Henry and others on the St Cuthbert’s pilgrimage, having done it before did not find it easy or alternatively trekking along the cycle track/roads. I dithered but discretion ruled over valour, given the time of day and I headed to Dechant and across to Fenwick along the roads. Here I called my B&B and Bev came and collected me and the dogs and took me to Bowsden. Here I and the dogs were well cared for, with drying facilities, the dogs own beds in the lounge, a bath, soup and sandwiches. It was good to share dog stories as Bev works gun dogs and breeds them. A calm evening reading and a good night’s rest and a prayer and hope for better weather tomorrow followed.

Day 4. Fenwick to Berwick: the final day.

After a leisurely breakfast, with a married couple also staying, when discussion was wide ranging from wind farms, to employment or lack of it and dogs of course, Bev dropped me off to start today’s walk. It was down to the Holy Island Causeway, a route done only two weeks ago and then out along the salt marshes and across the sluice. With its warning notices of being an ex military zone and therefore for folk to be careful of found metal objects that could be explosives. We passed an aggressive swan protecting his family of one cygnet against another adult. The causeway was very busy as the tide was out. Then it was along a track past a stable, campsite and a farm. There were excellent views of the Cheviots and then across another golf course Goswick. I felt I couldn’t cope with a long soft sand walk so stayed on the road but it meant that the sea was not visible.

Then we dropped down to the latter part of Cheswick sands and the wonderful rock formations there. This is the point I normally reach when I walk out from Spittal when I am up there and have the time to walk the dogs so it is a familiar part of the coast. The dogs came off their leads as we wandered along the cliffs between the railway and the sea, the cattle grazing being settled in the fields. Then it was along the promenade in Spittal where we stopped in drizzling rain for me to have some lunch. I was hungry in spite of the cooked breakfast.

We walked along the dock road, the dock and river having numerous swans on it. The railway, old and new bridges were impressive. I walked across the old one as it was easiest to access although guides said it is better to walk the new one enabling better view s of the older one than when you are on it. Then it was up through the town to the station. I would have liked the energy and somewhere to leave the dogs to explore Berwick with its architecture and quaint corners more, but the train home was calling.

It was amazing to be on the train and look out of the window and pass the landmarks of the last few days walking. Then it went inland but it made me realise how far I had walked to think it was a 45 minutes train journey back to Newcastle.

By the time we had walked home over the Town Moor the dogs and I were exhausted. The walk along the coast of the synod has certainly been a challenge and an adventure through which I had been inspired and learned a great deal about the history and context of the coast of the region in all its diversity. I have also been encouraged and impressed with both the dogs and my capacity to do it and to pace it so that it remained enjoyable and not something that had to be done.

I would like to express my thanks to all those who made it possible, those like Henry and Colin who helped with route planning, hosts and drivers like Colin, Patti, Val, Yvonne and Hilga who put up with the imposition of me and dogs and also the tourist board and B&B staff. But I also want to express my deepest thanks to Alan, my husband, whose hope to see more of me during my Sabbatical than normal has not been realised but who I am grateful to for allowing me the freedom to have done this walk as part of it. And to Toby and Molly for their company and for not actually dislocating a shoulder when they headed down a rabbit hole with me on the other end of a lead. Thanks to everyone who made this a good experience and a positive walk to do.

Rowena

Toby

Molly