Sunday 24 February 2013

Bridges and Barriers - our final day

It’s our final full day, and I’m feeling as confused and conflicted as when we first arrived.

St George's
Sunday is different here – even more than in deregulated Britain, it’s a normal working day, at least for the Muslim majority here in East Jerusalem. Weekends are basically Friday and Saturday. How the Christian community manages I don’t really know – but I suppose that is just a further aspect of the cry we continually hear, lamenting over the dwindling Christian population.
We attended the main service at St George’s Anglican Cathedral – an Arabic service, as we chose to be with the local congregation rather than the pilgrims and ex-pats who come to the later English language service. In fact, there were a number of English-speaking groups there, so a good deal of the service was translated, including the sermon which was preached twice. And the service book helped us to know exactly what was being said for much of the rest of the time. As ever, I found particularly moving the reference in the Eucharistic prayer to Jesus being “crucified here in Jerusalem”.
Brian with Bishop Suheil
After the service we had half an hour with Bishop Suheil, who reminded us once more of the plight of the Christian church in the region. His Anglican diocese includes Syria, as well as Palestine, Lebanon, Jordan and Israel. He has been unable to visit Syria for over a year, and is fearful for the future of Christians there. Over two thirds of Iraqi Christians have fled their country in recent years, and much the same is very likely to happen in Syria. As for Jerusalem itself, in 1948 27% of the population was Christian: now the figure is around 1%.

Later we were back on the bus, with Amir driving us to Ramallah. Progress through the checkpoint was not too bad, and we were on time for our session with Addameer, where Gavin outlined for us his organisation’s support for Palestinians political prisoners, stressing that the Israeli government has used imprisonment as a policy since 1948, and particularly since 1967 has used it as a means to destroy Palestinian society. Much of what is happening is in clear breach of international law (eg only one of the 17 prisons used is in the West Bank: thus the occupying power is taking prisoners out of their country), but particularly concerning is the way in which there seems to be a deliberate targeting of children.
We were given so much information to process that it is hard to say much about it all so soon – and indeed I suspect we all will need quite some time to reflect properly on all that we have learned over this past week or so. But in the mean time, everything that Addameer does (other than its case notes and histories) is on their website – http://www.addameer.org.  As Gavin stressed, they have nothing to hide.

On the way home, progress through the checkpoint was slower. The IDF soldiers had their visors, and a shot of some kind of fired as we passed – probably a baton round. No doubt there had been some stone-throwing going on – the most common charge laid against Israeli children.
When we were with Bishop Suheil this morning he commented that not only is the wall ugly, but it does nothing to help bring people together. As the young soldiers boarded our bus and checked our passports, we could only begin to imagine what their continual presence must mean to the Palestinian people who have to undertake journeys through these  check points day after day – and bear much  more besides.

It’s now late afternoon, and this time tomorrow we will be getting ready to fly back home. Later this evening we hope to have a brief walking tour of the old city; and then in the morning, when we have some time to spare, we hope to get up on to the Temple Mount. But that will depend on the authorities – and in this case both Israelis and Palestinians have it in their power to deny access. The area was closed off because of incidents on Friday afternoon, and there seems to be a perception round that, especially because of the hunger strikers, the whole situation is hotting up again.
In a land of walls and barriers, peacemakers should surely be blessed, and Christians be ready to learn to build bridges.

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