Synod Pilgrimage Day 3

Gunnerside to Reeth

The first surprise of the day was the fact that the sun was not shining. A fine mist shut off the view from the hostel over the valley, and still lingered after our nine o’clock prayers in the garden room and our prompt get-away – the bus driven today by Norma. The walk began exactly where yesterday’s finished at Gunnerside; and after half an hour or so of walking along the river bank we realised that the sun was nearly shining, and the forecasts we’d heard about a brilliant day were going to be realised again.

Ruined Chapel at Smarber

After a while we left the river and took a steep and treacherous path up the hillside. At the top, well guarded by nettles, we discovered the site of the original Smarber Chapel, gift of Lord Wharton (of Lord Wharton’s Bibles fame) to the original dissenting congregation of the late 1600s.

From there a much easier path took us back into the valley, and to the present Low Row United Reformed Church, successor to the chapel up the hillside. From there we walked the length of the village to Mellbecks, where we met  up with Norma and the van, and were warmly greeted in the Anglican church by two members of the congregation who provided coffee to accompany our packed lunches.

Low Row URC

The afternoon walking was as good as ever as we were led back up the valley side, giving us splendid views back over the way we’d taken over the past 48 hours. Then a gentle descent down to Healaugh (where a local told us how to pronounce it) and from there to the river. Stepping stones led us across to the other side: not that we were going that way, but none of us could resist using them. Back on track, we followed the river for a mile or so, and then took the field path up into the centre of Reeth.

Melbecks parish church

Norma had already discovered the Wednesday is early closing day in Reeth. But never mind: the ice cream parlour was open, and every pilgrim is able to recommend the home-made ice cream on sale there. But we finished the walk more quietly and thoughtfully in the Methodist chapel just off the green, before the minibus took us back to the hostel.

A little less rushed than some days, there was time for a shower and a little relaxation before Norma turned the bus around to take us back to Reeth, and a bar meal at the King’s Arms.