Nazareth

For much of today it has been almost as if we were real pilgrims-cum-tourists.

A tolerably early start from the Jericho Resort Hotel allowed us to be at the baptismal site just south of the Allenby Bridge before nine o’clock. To reach it we had to pass through an unmanned road block leading us into the Israeli territorial strip that runs the length of the border – a border which is marked of course by the River Jordan. Mine fields lie either side of the road, with dire warnings on the fences. The whole area is clearly prepared for any invading army.

Despite the early hour, we were by no means the first at the site. Quite a large group were praying and singing, while the workers who care for the site accompanied them (despite the notices asking respect for religious groups’ practices) on their motorised saws, bringing down dead palm leaves and generally tidying up for the season. A few other individuals were wandering round, and we ourselves shared our morning prayer time together as we sat on the steps leading down to the river. All of this under the watchful, but unthreatening eyes of a few pairs of Israeli soldier – while just a few yards away, on the Jordanian bank, other Christians were doing much the same. We were to hear later in the day about invisible barriers. The Jordan, it should be said, is very muddy and very visible – but what a barrier it represents.

From there we drove north up the Jordan Valley, where for much of the way the road follows the border fence. Many of the farms along this way are lush and productive, and there are countless date palms to give depth to the scene. Large water pipes are in evidence – and the productive farms clearly depend on copious irrigation. These, we can be sure, are the farms of Israeli settlers. Where the crops are poorer, the cause will be a comparative lack of water, which is a sure sign of Palestinian ownership. Yesterday we saw the Bedouin having to rely on a poor and distant water source, while the Israeli main supply passed right by their village. Now we were seeing a similar situation: Palestinians are allowed only something like 20% of the volume the Israelis may purchase.

We were stopped at the check point that leads into Israel proper, but were not delayed, and we were soon heading away from the Jordan and into the Valley of Jezreel, where we stopped at Bet She’an. Here we felt like real tourists as we explored the 400 acre park which contains the ancient city of Scythopolis and the imposing Tel. For most of us the temptation to climb to the top was too great, even though it lies at the far end of the site, and demands the effort of climbing hundreds of steps. No surprise then that we were a little later back at the bus than original planned: but well satisfied by the visit, and perhaps more than a little pleased to have had an hour or so with a totally different focus.

Back on the bus we were soon in Nazareth, where we spent a few minutes in the Greek Orthodox Church containing Mary’s Well, and then moved to a café round the corner where we enjoyed a fine falafel lunch. From there we made our way through the market to the Synagogue Church – certainly very much later than the time of Jesus, but still a place that for centuries has  commemorated his Nazareth sermon, and which retains an atmosphere of quiet reverence to this day. Jane read for us the verses from Luke 4 describing the event, touching our spirits. The Basilica of the Annunciation provides a contrast, though today the comparatively small number of visitors made it less off-putting than sometimes. The old Byzantine ruins in the “basement” were nearly empty when I sent down the steps, and there was a real atmosphere of prayer and quietness – even after I realised that the man on his knees in front of the grill was in fact taking a picture on his mobile phone.

From there we walked together through the streets to the YMCA, where we met up with Violette Khouri of Sabeel, the liberation theology organisation. Her presentation to us was clear and spirited, and we found answers to many of the questions that we had already been discussing in the bus. We learned how the Israeli Arabs (they are not allowed to call themselves Palestinians) are second class citizens in a number of ways. Though citizens of Israel they do not have Israeli nationality. They are obliged to live in specified locations, and their schools are not allowed to teach children their own history and traditions. Yet these Arabs make up 20% of the population of Israel. However, only 8% of this minority are Christians – ie just 1.4% of the population of Israel.

Violette described her people as having a lost identity, a conflicted identity, and an occupied identity, before going on to outline the story of Sabeel’s work in Nazareth, and weaving into this a number of her own stories as a mother, a businesswoman, and now an active participant in Sabeel’s programme. Christians of the eight denominations in Nazareth are now being encouraged to meet together. Jewish people who are prepared to cross the many invisible walls that run through Israeli society are also encouraged to participate in activities and understand the perspective outlined by Susan Nathan (herself a Jew) in her book “The other side of Israel”. Violette concluded by giving her own understanding of liberation theology, as a Christian voice raised in a non-violent way – “as Christ would do”.

A further hour’s drive brought us over the hills and down to Tiberias, and to our kibbutz hotel a few miles further north along the shore of the Sea of Galilee. Tomorrow we will be visiting sites around the lake, and no doubt will have Violette’s words and personality in mind as we reflect further on the ministry of Jesus, and the manifesto to bring good news to the poor and relief to those who are oppressed.