Rowna's walking, Whitby to Berwick: Week 3

Week 3 of walking from Whitby to Berwick and I am now in my stride and feeling fit having walked St Cuthbert’s Way with a group between this and week two.

Day 1: Monkseaton to North Seaton

The dogs are getting used to the Metro as we walked in over Newcastle Town Moor to the Haymarket and travelled to Monkseaton, walking down to the front to where we left off. This part of the coast is familiar as the dogs and I walk it regularly. We went along the Promenade of Whitley Bay (dogs are banned from the beach in the summer season) to St Mary’s Island. At Seaton Sluice, we stopped for a drink at The King’s Arms. Then it was along the sands and dunes to Blyth with Toby insisting on us walking the dunes so he could chase rabbits and me failing to insist on the beach so that we were nearer the sea.

In order to stay near the coast Blyth was as problematic as Middleborough and entailed coming inland to the main A189 bridge. The journey to that point involved eating doughnuts on the refurbished sea front of Byth, a significant trek along roads past the port and then a riverside walk along the estuary where the number of sea and wader birds was good to see. Then the best way forward seemed to be cycle tracks; along the railway and through Bedlington Station and onto East Sleekburn. The next bit was the most unpleasant part of the walk yet – an on road cycle route that took me a long way round back to the main road. Here the cycle route ran alongside the main road and was not too bad. The day had progressed and unable to find an easy way down to the riverside and North Seaton Colliery I continued up the hill to the roundabout with the road to Ashington and Newbiggin off the main road and phoned my host and chauffeur for the day Yvonne Tracey. A refreshing evening of conversation and good food provided sustenance for the walk ahead.

The resident cat was not sure about the dogs moving into the garage, and the dogs were not sure about the cat. But apart from a bout of barking around midnight and Molly, taking a white to settle all was well.

Day 2: North Seaton to Hadston Visitor Centre

It was good to be joined for this morning walk by Ian and Cynthia Smith from Stockton. Ian has written a book on the Northumbrian Coast amongst others and so it was good to have his expertise and to allow someone else to navigate especially as it was not clear how we might circumvent the power station of the Alcan works in Lynemouth.

Again, this week the weather was clear and dry; ideal for walking. We walked down through Sandy Bay caravan site to the point on the north of the River Font, and then followed the cliffs northward, climbing and crossing the fence of the caravan site at various points due to erosion. In Newbiggin, we admired the sculpture of a couple looking out to sea on the breakwater and the smaller one in the town. We also had coffee and teacakes. We then walked the coastward side of the golf course. The rock formations and sea coal around were fascinating.

We managed to stay coast side of the power station but hit problems when we came to a water way. After deciding against a scramble, and walking around we had to back track and find a way down to the beach. I was glad to have company as alone I would have turned back and walked the long way round by road.

The old slag heaps from the colliery were being cleared and allowed to be washed away into the sea – who knows what this space might be reclaimed for and revitalized as.

As we continued towards Cresswell there were many ponies tethered out, most kept as pets now but some still used to harvest sea coal from the coast. Here we stopped at the ice-cream shop for something to eat and ice-cream of course. Then we parted company and the Smiths caught a bus to family in the area and I continued on my own.

Unrealistically I was aiming to do the length of Durridge Bay to Amble. Walking along the seemingly endless sands, with Toby on a lead so he did not go off the dunes, although soothing and peaceful was also a long jaunt. I came up to the Dunes and let the dogs have their way at the track down from Widdrington and we walked along the cycle track past the nature reserves to the visitor centre. Here I phoned Hilga Peacock who had accepted the imposition of the dogs and I with reticence more about the former than I as moderator. Fortunately, the dogs were well behaved and did as they were told; probably because they had chased so many rabbits, they were exhausted. It was good to be in a home from home and be fed well. I slept like a log as I guess the dogs did too.

Day 3 Hadston Visitor Centre to South Alnmouth.

The dogs continued to enjoy the freedom to chase rabbits as on a beautiful morning we followed the path around the coast, seeing Hadstone Carrs rock formation, followed by Bondi and then Silver Carrs. People had camped on the dunes and in conversation with other dog owners concern about a lost Springer Spaniel believed to have got stuck down a rabbit hole was expressed. Then it was through Low Hauxley and on along the dunes around Pan Point into Amble with spectacular views of Coquet Island.

In Amble I spent some time looking at the piers with people fishing on them, watched as a puffin tour left, had coffee and cake, and visited the town square with its sundial and the marina. Then it was up the road to Warkworth.

It was good not to be pushed for time having given myself an extra day so I walked up river beyond the castle to the Hermitage whose history is unclear. The ferryman rowing people over welcomed the dogs and so they had their first experience of being on a boat. The hermitage consisting of a chapel, confessional and dormitory carried an ethos of peace and calm. Then it was back for a picnic on the river bank.

I took time to explore Warkworth and St Lawrence’s before following the river to cross the Norman Bridge. Then it was up the lane to the golf course and along the beach – yet another part of the coast the dogs and I have done several times. Again, they would have preferred to be up on the dunes and I wanted to be on the beach. This time I won by imposing a lead. The sound of sea and bird cries led to a great sense of peace. As we approached the mouth of the River Aln, we went up onto the dunes and took the track up to the main road so that Hilga could easily pick us up and host us for a second night. I am deeply thankful for those who have hosted me and the dogs and made the walk possible.

Day 4: South of Alnmouth to Alnmouth station.

This half day took us along a cycle track near the River Aln to the road bridge over it and back down Lovers Lane on the other side with good views of Church Hill that a storm had separated off from the rest of the town a long time ago. Here we observed the town and sea from a viewing point before wandering up the main street to the Friary. Then it was round the back and up the hill to the Trig point before dropping down to the river along an overgrown footpath. I followed the river round to Lesbury where I met someone going for a bus who directed me over the old bridge with its modern counterpart right next to it, up Curly lane to the railway station. Here I had a picnic lunch before the journey home.

There is only one more week of walking to go when I hope to complete Alnmouth to Berwick. I am amazed at the sense of achievement and surprised that I have not found it more difficult physically. The coast of the synod is diverse and beautiful but some might say the best is still to come.

Rowena Francis